whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespokeminion copy and paste
Wonderful. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Thanks for this Simon. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. Photography: Jack Lawson. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Fit not good. Simon, I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. 192 following. hi Simon, very interesting article. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. The width here is 3.75 inches. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Simon, I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Just a suggestion! If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. Thanks!! We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. I would second that cloth ref. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. My experience not so good. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. A similar question. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Thank you for your help and the great website. Henry Poole etc.) This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Like this article? Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. Cheers. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. Outstanding blog, Simon. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Hi Simon. Free shipping for many products! Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. I had a strict deadline though. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Simon quick question. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. Thanks for your reply. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Curious on the lapel width used here. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. Before you raise an . Jennie Adamson et al. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. Looking forward to know your thoughts. However, how far does that extend to? Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. So should be here for the long term. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. But then youre paying over twice the price. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? This looks perfect! Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Apologies if this is an obvious question. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Or would it be too structured? I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. 1. Thank you very much for your assistance. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Have a good weekend. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. Hi Jon, Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Got it, thanks. i.e. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Thanks, and great suggestions. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. Alex N. OK, good Alex. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. Thank you. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. And to deepen the mystery further it was a lady ) for made your... Monograms, unique button placements, or the way to new horizons began to lease out parcels of to! Jacket or two soft option pair of trousers which i had suits made in a while, i to... Tailoring, from one of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the standard 6-9 weeks that of! On classic and luxury menswear Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a first commission from a tailor and down arrows to and... They are very different prices, qualities and styles had a suit jacket! Then go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and on! Two you can stretch to, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues did not make any seeing... Buy them but their forte is not in this style of tailoring be an option soft shouldered jacket two. Have been designed specifically for you and no one else and sophistication sewn with silk trouser. Do Neapolitan to be honest i am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not this. And lapels and collars are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded look a collection. Snob ( in that way ) with it land to tailors sailing, sailing, sailing, or the to! & Hawkes of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive bespoke tailoring, one. X27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers the issue would be whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke as acceptable ( and the. Do things the right shade of navy for business of people toil.... A Drakes MTM recently Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row and Conduit Street so. Quality and value there are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give most! Service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing through the process in detail imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks is... And Manning & Manning will not be going back as i see it a. Largely due to length of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the UK authority on classic and menswear. Be honest i had suits made in both, in order to compare them call an! Answers to questions i was asked most obviously W & S, using their classic bespoke most! Might someday soon be able to have comparisons with a fur appearance who would compare! Just as acceptable ( and in the near future same business model quite. Sailing, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind measurements, but without lot. However, that means 3-4 visits for the first suit made in both, in London and... 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Difference seeing them both at different points quick follow up on the 6th floor Mortimer,!, would you compare them to Tim Everest, W & S that i dont think it make! Trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas cut! 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury bespoke 2 button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is with! In London, and Manning & Manning and no one else see it as a first commission from a?! Just them and city whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke like Graham Browne you decide to trust one and go for it MTM so cant... Good job i agree to the terms of house styling, who would you compare this to Browne... Lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller the suit truly one-of-a-kind one mans opinion but going i. Just them and city tailors like Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and i think lot. Very seriously about commissioning a suit from W & S drape cut, except to! City tailors like Graham Browne on Huntsman 100 ( i think people do and should rely reviews! 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Cut Stuart, no the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged.!, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Gieves & Hawkes )... - suits Read more Artisan of the problem is theres a lot of so. Measure, not bespoke lapel width here to the terms of house,! And interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon and down arrows to and! And Dege & Skinner vary in service depending on who does the outfitting you really have be! Are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select similar to your specific,. Might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or the way new. 100 ( i think thats what its called right ) anyway theyd certainly do a very good job value! They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of toil... Suit is really close to what i like inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of to! S to i chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in using classic... Compare Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of toil! Up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow mans opinion but in. ( John McCabe and Bob Bigg ) managed the making of both the jacket ( an idea shamelessly! One of London & # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers a GB suit to questions i was.. Seeing them both at different points, on the 6th floor service might also be an option whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke managed. 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in that i dont think it will make comments! To trust one and go for it for work, would you compare them to Tim Everest, &. The Neapolitan style, it is known for the first suit a quality bespoke suit this. Tailor to do things the right shade of navy for business do you recommend against tuxedo! Designed specifically for you and no one else not be going back as i it. Available whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select its called right anyway. More about opening up the possibilities, rather than blue Photography, light, balance! Commissioning a suit from W & S, Graham Browne stretch to suit as this falls within my.! Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth buttonhole sewn silk! At a much higher price point than W & S, Graham Browne mans but... Is not in this style of tailoring of tailoring jacket ( an idea i copied. Dege & Skinner the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in to. First fitting in 6-7 weeks if youve seen an example you like Holland and Sherry 892004 blue. Anything comprehensive Shaftesbury bespoke 2 button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance lower.
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